Patchouli’s back – and it’s high end not hippy: It was the heady scent of the 1970s but SARAH BARCLAY says its revival is a far more stylish affair
- Patchouli was once the preserve of hippies and groovy art teachers in the 1970s
- Perfumers have now created a slew of wildly varied fragrances from the scent
- New ways of wearing classic perfume from quirky perfumes to unisex colognes
Once the preserve of hippies and groovy art teachers in the 1970s, patchouli is having a moment.
This summer, perfumers have seized on this aromatic plant used for centuries as a scent and moth repellent, and created a slew of wildly varied fragrances, from quirky creative cult perfumes to upbeat unisex colognes.
In the discos of the late 1970s the air was thick with the smell of body odour, boys drenched in Blue Stratos (remember that?) and another, distinctive aroma — Body Shop Patchouli with the occasional floral pocket of Cacharel’s Anais Anais.
Subtlety was not the aim of the game. It was a dominant, sledgehammer of a fragrance, yelling ‘hey look at me, I’m interesting,’ as we bounced around to Earth, Wind & Fire.
Patchouli was once the preserve of hippies and groovy art teachers in the 1970s, now perfumers have created a slew of wildly varied fragrances from the earthly scent (file image)
British perfumer and perfume history guru Roja Dove says patchouli’s earthy character feels spot on for 2021.
‘In the 1960s and 1970s, the British and American youth were the post-World War II and Vietnam War generation. They felt politics was rotten and mother earth was where the connection mattered,’ he says.
With the rise in families moving to the countryside post-lockdown and serious concern for the environment, it is no coincidence patchouli ticks our emotional boxes.
Patchouli, a relative of the humble mint plant, is the scent of soil. But new ways of isolating patchouli molecules from the leaves and stems, using fractional distillation, have produced a rainbow of olfactory options.
‘It still has the grounding quality, but without the weight,’ explains Dove.
The best bit however is that it is loathed by moths and other insects. Patchouli was used to protect valuable textiles long before the invention of moth balls. The scent became synonymous with quality and luxury for Victorian women.
There may be new ways of wearing the classic perfume, but the grounding character remains the same. You can’t help feeling the hippies would have approved.
ELEGANT AND QUIRKY
Cult perfumers, Ostens, was so excited about the new possibilities, that it launched two new patchouli fragrances.
Patchouli Heart I, which is gently sensual with a hint of dark caramel, licorice and amber, and Patchouli Heart II, a lovely, slightly ecclesiastical smelling blend of rosemary, pink pepper and resin.
ostens.com
Rating: 4.5/5 for both
UPBEAT MODERNITY
Herbal and zesty with a fresh patchouli hit. Created by Jo Malone, the queen of simple yet addictively easy-to-wear fragrances, this new arrival is Jo’s antidote to lockdown: full of fresh optimism and ‘blue sky thinking’.
Could be considered masculine because of the cedar but somehow thanks to a dash of geranium, is like a shot of freshness and strength.
joloves.com
Rating: 4/5
SUMMER BLISS
One of those great aromas that’s both simple and sophisticated.
A riff on a classic Italian Riviera cologne, a sunny blend of citrus, sea moss and patchouli. Think warm sea air and sun-kissed skin.
sunspel.com
Rating: 5/5
SENSUAL FLORAL
This isn’t cheap, but it’s as close to perfect as a rose and patchouli blend can be.
It is the ‘evening’ version of Sisley’s floral Izia and is perfect for smouldering your way through a hot summer night.
sisley-paris.com
Rating: 5/5
WARM AND SEXY
Launched this summer, this is an attention seeker, rather like Boucheron’s flamboyant, bold jewellery designs.
A warm, masculine, thigh-slappingly strong aroma with a dominant leather note evolves into a sensual blend of patchouli, ginger and cinnamon.
A unisex perfume that’s maybe more appealing for men to wear.
harrods.com
Rating: 3.5/5
SWEET SEDUCTRESS
Where many of the others are sophisticated ensembles, Roja Dove’s creation is a full philharmonic orchestra of grown-up perfume, with patchouli anchoring the base along with chamomile and leather.
It may begin innocently with a burst of fruit and floral notes, but it warms to a flirtatious flourish.
A grown up choice for someone who wants to avoid any classic doyenne perfumes, but wants to wear the note du jour.
rojaparfums.com
Rating: 5/5